Sidewinder X1 Introduction
The Artillery Sidewinder X1 is a fantastic piece of equipment with well-set firmware. It’s evident that once anyone gets the printer, they will get tempted to do a firmware update. This happens because everyone wants to have the most up-to-date software.
Ensure the printer is operational for a few days to know that it is in proper working order in the default setup. Experiment with various slicer settings and materials to observe it. In this way, it’s possible to know what works and what doesn’t. It is high time to discover why certain things work, and others don’t.
Feel free to begin customizing and enhancing the game. However, it makes use of an earlier iteration of firmware from Marlin and hence misses many features. The Artillery Sidewinder X1 needs to be upgraded to the Marlin 184.108.40.206 version for using all the capabilities that it offers.
Upgrade the Sidewinder X1 Firmware
The main board as also the TFT have separate firmware communication via the serial port. This port too is linked with the main board’s outer USB connection. The mainboard has a serial port that is also linked with the TFT’s outer USB connection. Due to design sharing of the serial port, changing the mainboard firmware via USB is not workable.
First, turn on the printer and the TFT must be disconnected from the mainboard for updating the firmware. Removing the ribbon cable from one end of the TFT’s ribbon wire (whichever one has less glue on it).
Connect the printer with a PC, and then upload the hex firmware with the Prusa Slicer to the printer’s motherboard.
It’s good to use an SD Card of 16 GB or less to update the TFT, making the process a little simpler. Don’t upgrade the firmware unnecessarily. Upgrade only when the system’s original firmware is working. Upgrading the firmware will not magically fix any issues with the machine (if any). It will not also improve the quality of print.
Why Upgrade the Artillery Sidewinder X1 Firmware
The new features are the primary reason users will want to update the firmware. There are very small changes from the earlier version of the firmware. Yet, there are a handful that can get some refinement in the quality of the product.
EEPROM Save – This allows one to retain settings even if the printer is rebooted. This includes PID tuning, E-steps, acceleration and max speed, jerk, and default acceleration. This is to do away the need to remember to include them in the slicer every time, especially when switching between slicers.
Baby-stepping – This allows the axes to be moved in real time in small increments without altering the position value at present. This is excellent for adjusting for a little misalignment during the first layer.
Linear advancement – This enables one to decrease extrusion right before turning corners in the printing process.
The extruder cannot switch direction or speed instantly as a result of inertia. It has to decelerate and speed again. This is very much observed on jagged corners, where the machine must change course by above 90 degrees.
Since the extrusion rate is consistent, the deceleration succeeded by speeding up deposits of some more material in and on the jagged edges. More information on linear advancement can be found on https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html
Leveling of Bed Automatically – BLTouch or similar probes for the print bed can be used to automatically level it.
Leveling using Mesh Bed – To avoid using a probe, users can utilize this function to manually create a mesh to adjust for uneven beds.
Perquisites for upgrading Firmware
In order to connect to the PC and flash the board firmware, the stock TFT touchscreen cable must be removed. Carefully remove any adhesive from the connector, then attach the printer to the PC using the provided USB cable.
This black and red wire can easily be removed from the screen. Users can flash the display without having to reopen the printer if the wire is removed. If the primary TFT cable is clogged with glue, simply remove the cable and continue flashing the firmware.
One can now reconnect the TFT cable to its initial position and replace the base cover after flashing the firmware.
How to use Marlin 220.127.116.11 for flashing Artillery Sidewinder X1
Use a software application such as the Prusa Slicer to first flash the board’s firmware.
- Get the Marlin 18.104.22.168 download here
- Start Prusa Slicer
- To flash the printer firmware, select Configuration followed by Flash printer firmware
- Choose the relevant serial port for the printer after selecting the Marlin-22.214.171.124 Artillery Sidewinder X1 3DPrintBeginner.hex file
- Wait for the procedure to complete after clicking on Flash
Make sure to run the G-Code given after flashing the firmware to restore factory defaults and reset the EEPROM. “Print” the .gcode file that was copied to SD memory Card. Alternatively, one can execute following commands in the order below:
M502 > M500 > M501
Custom LCD Firmware Flashing for Artillery Sidewinder X1
Use the following steps for installing the updated display firmware for Sidewinder X1:
- Sidewinder X1 display firmware can be downloaded from the following link here.
- Copy the archive contents to the SD Card after unzipping it.
- Insert the SD memory card into the printer.
- Wait for the firmware to complete flashing before turning the printer on.
- Touch the screen’s calibration points.
- Start the printer again.
That is all there is to it. Users can now make use of the new capabilities provided by the upgraded firmware.
Firmware Flash using BLTouch for Artillery Sidewinder X1
Sidewinder-X1 is fantastic, and has a well-configured firmware. Yet, it uses an earlier version of Marlin that is missing in some functionality.
To take advantage of all of the improvements offered by Artillery Sidewinder X1, it becomes imperative to upgrade the firmware with BLTouch settings.
Users may learn how to set up the pins by watching the Waggster Mod video below:
Auto-Leveling Sidewinder X1 Bed with Stock Sensors
Because not everyone likes to pay over $35 for a Genuine BLTouch sensor, one can use the default inductive sensor.
Users can get Bed Leveling to be automatic on a 3D printer without splurging money for a new sensor by using the original Z endstop. Let’s check out this one.
Auto Bed Leveling isn’t actually necessary. However, it simplifies things and enhances the printing process.
Normally, one would use the plain old method to manually level the printer. By adjusting all corners of the print bed, taking the help of some paper and making use of the bed leveling knobs on the bed’s underside.
The technique works, but several users have reported obtaining bent glass beds with the center of the plate either too high or too low. Here is where Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) comes to assistance.
The sensor will be used by ABL to scan the bed in numerous points and create a mesh. Then, for that flawless initial layer, it will adjust for the unbalanced bed.
Another enhancement is the function to use the Artillery Bed Balancing Mod. This takes out the springs beneath the build plate that are substituted with nuts to keep the bed securely in position. Thus ensures the users don’t have to mess with it for a long time.
Though this functions great even without a sensor, compensating for minor irregular spots in the build plate surface ensures that the first layer difficulties are never encountered. And a flawless first layer is always
achievable without tinkering with the printer.
Point to Note
One has to use this at their own caution. With practically no assurance of either stated or implied for the Firmware and Config Files.